The Muslim heritage in Spain.
We departed from Marbella heading towards Granada. However, we took a detour along the way. The road ascended the mountainside through a Spanish national park, ultimately revealing a stunning view of the town of Ronda. This ancient city is inconveniently split by a river gorge that exceeds 100 yards in depth. The gorge appears even more profound when gazing down into it. Fortunately, three bridges cross the gorge, linking the two sides of Ronda. One of these, the Roman Bridge, was originally constructed during Roman times. I am eager to visit and observe the construction of the bridge.
Similar to Granada, where we will conclude our day, Ronda boasts numerous literary associations. Its bullfighting arena was a favored summer retreat for Ernest Hemingway, followed by Orson Welles, and prior to them, the renowned German poet Rainier Maria Rilke. Our tour guide aspires to reside in Ronda one day if he wins the lottery. We explored the bullfighting museum and then wandered through the city, visiting a residence perched on the edge of a canyon, which was remarkable.
By late afternoon, we had arrived in the southern Spanish city of Granada. It is situated in a fertile basin at the base of Spain's Sierra Nevada mountains. Like many cities in Iberia, it has Roman origins. In 1492, the last Moorish kingdom in Granada succumbed to Ferdinand and Isabella. The Emir of Granada surrendered without resistance, with the condition that the Muslims of Granada could retain their faith. However, eight years later, this assurance was violated, intensifying the animosity between Christians and Muslims. The night we reached Granada marked the only disappointing meal I experienced in Spain, an excessively salty paella.
I am an accomplished cook and have enjoyed paella prepared by a local Spaniard. Yet, this particular paella was a complete disappointment.
Presently, Granada is a contemporary city, although its historic districts persist. I suspect that in the past, the landscape was filled with lush farms rather than the current apartment complexes. Nevertheless, for over five centuries, the Alhambra has loomed over the city from its hilltop.
The Spanish monarchs Isabella and Ferdinand were enchanted by the allure of Granada and the Alhambra. Initially, they had contemplated the holy city of Toledo as their final burial site, but the magnificence of the Alhambra persuaded them to choose it instead. Currently, their remains rest in the Royal Chapel of Granada, adjacent to Granada Cathedral in the center of the historic city.
What is the Alhambra?
The recent history of the Alhambra, specifically over the past two hundred and fifty years, is quite fascinating. During the Napoleonic Wars in Spain, the Alhambra was occupied by the French. As was the case in other regions of Spain and Portugal, they looted extensively and destroyed parts of the Alhambra grounds. The Duke of Wellington's triumph at the Battle of Vitoria ultimately expelled the French from Spain, partly due to the delay caused by the arrival of large wagon trains filled with stolen goods. Following this, a period of decline ensued for the Alhambra, leading to its deterioration.
The resurgence of the Alhambra can be attributed in part to the writers and poets of the Romantic movement. Lord Byron composed a poem dedicated to the Alhambra. After residing in the Alhambra for three months, Washington Irving authored a well-received book titled ‘Tales of the Alhambra.’ This work, along with his other writings about Spain, significantly advanced the appreciation of Muslim heritage. Today, Washington Irving is best remembered for his short story I express my gratitude for their efforts. Following the breakfast tour of the Alhambra, we enjoyed a delightful lunch on the terrace of the Alhambra Palace Hotel. Our table provided a stunning view of the city. That evening, we were entertained by a vibrant flamenco dance and music performance. While seated in the courtyard of King Charles V's palace, reflecting on 'Tales of the Alhambra', Anika arrived with her team. It was time to proceed inside. The tourist bureau had already gathered our tickets, priced at 12 euros per person. We scanned our tickets and made our entrance.
A vast complex awaited us. Our group was split into two, one led by a Swedish guide and the other by an English guide. We opted for the English group in search of some variety. The guide provided an excellent overview of the history of Alhambra, its architecture, and Muslim artistry.
Exploring the entire complex takes approximately three hours. We toured the Palace of Lions, the Portal Palace, and the Palace of Commerce, as well as the Hall of the Kings, the Court of Long Ponds, the Court of the Mireilles, and ultimately reached the historic ‘Hall of Ambassadors’.
Washington Irving, the author of Tales of the Alhambra, visited this hall nearly two centuries ago. Very little remains of what he experienced. He wrote, "I guided myself along the wall of the entrance to the Ambassadors' Hall and came to a small door at the bottom. As the door opened, I was unexpectedly taken aback by the bright entrance of the Hall of Ambassadors; the entrance is separated from the palace by an elegant gallery, supported by slender columns with openwork spandrels in the Morisco style. The eastern room features a partially enclosed space at each end, and its ceiling is richly whitewashed. Upon passing through a grand entrance, I found myself in the renowned ‘Hall of Ambassadors’, the audience chamber of the Muslim kings. It is said to measure 37 feet square and sixty feet high; yet it still bears traces of its former glory. The walls are beautifully whitewashed and adorned with Morisco intricacies; It is described as being 37 feet square and sixty feet high; nevertheless, it still shows signs of its former magnificence. The walls are elegantly whitewashed and adorned with Morisco whimsy; the lofty ceiling is notable for its vibrant colors and gilded embellishments, originally Moorish with pencil designs or stalactites. Regrettably, it fell during an earthquake, its ribs oddly shaped and richly hued; it continues to exude an oriental, ‘Arabian Nights’ ambiance.
The royal throne was situated in a recess opposite the entrance, where an inscription remains, indicating that King Yusuf I (who finalized the construction of the Alhambra) had it established as the throne of his realm. Everything in this splendid hall appears to have been crafted to envelop the throne with remarkable dignity and grandeur. The tower possesses immense strength, commanding the entire structure and covering the steep mountain incline. The Hall of Ambassadors is bordered by windows carved through the substantial walls on three sides, offering expansive vistas. The central window balcony overlooks the lush valley of Daro, with a distant view to the left; directly in front lies a blend of streets, terraces, and gardens. "Woe to the man who has lost all this!" lamented Charles V, gazing out from this window at the enchanting panorama.
The balcony by the window where Charles V voiced his royal wonder is my preferred spot. I simply sit there relishing the conclusion of a long, bright day. The sun descends behind the purple hills of Alhambra, the stream of brilliance above the valley of Daro casting a melancholic splendor over the red towers of the Alhambra; the Vega River, shrouded in a gentle warm mist, bathed in the setting rays, unfurls in the distance like a golden sea. Not a whisper of wind disrupted the tranquility of that moment, and the recollection of the scenes took on an almost magical quality, with the evening sunlight on the towers illuminating the splendors of the past.
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